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Ireland Travel

Traveling Ireland By Bus: Your Guide

February 9, 2020

So you’re planning to go traveling around Ireland by bus but you don’t know exactly how it will work? Well, you’ve come to the right place! Ireland is a gorgeous country and a very popular one to visit. With its beautiful scenery, rich and haunting history, and friendly reputation, it’s no surprise Ireland boasts over 11 million overseas tourists per year!

While a lot of those tourists rent cars to drive around the country sightseeing, not everyone is comfortable doing so, especially if you are from one of the 66% percent of countries that follow right-hand traffic laws. If you are one of those people, you might be wondering if it’s possible to have a rich and fulfilling trip to Ireland without driving a car yourself.

Before going to Ireland last spring, I wasn’t sure how to go about researching this and didn’t find a lot of helpful things in existence on the internet, which prompted me to write this post. I’m here to tell you that yes, you can, in fact, get around Ireland solely by bus and public transport and guide you through the process.

Traveling Ireland By Bus: Your Guide

Benefits of Traveling Ireland by Bus

If you’re not completely comfortable with the idea of driving in a foreign country, let alone a country where the entire traffic system is set up opposite of yours, traveling Ireland by bus is an appealing alternative. Luckily, Ireland has a pretty extensive public transportation system that is easy to figure out and use.

You’ll find that by traveling by bus you will have fewer worries and stress because you won’t need to worry about adapting to their road system. Also, depending on where you are traveling, it’s not always easy to find parking (particularly in larger cities like Dublin or Belfast). Traveling by bus will eliminate this stress.

The only downside is that you are limited somewhat in where you travel. Ireland has a lot of tiny rural towns that you will only be able to visit by private car. You are also committed to the bus timetables vs your own schedule.

That said, I spent almost 2 weeks in Ireland traveling solely by bus and was still able to see many amazing sights! You will just have to weigh these factors when deciding for yourself how you plan to travel around Ireland.

The dark hedges in Northern Ireland, one of the places visited by bus — The Dark Hedges, Northern Ireland

Traveling Ireland by Bus vs Train

Why not do your traveling in Ireland by train? While it’s true that in a lot of European countries it’s much easier to travel by train, in Ireland the buses are a more convenient (and more affordable choice).

The train network in Ireland is mainly between the larger cities, so even if you do travel by rail between major points, you will still most likely have to include a bus ride as well. The one advantage of the train is that it’s generally faster with fewer stops. If you need to make a quick trip (for example, to or from Dublin) for your plane or to catch a bus to a smaller city, then a train might be more convenient.

Self Guided Bus Travel

A fairly easy and inexpensive way to see Ireland by bus is to travel by way of large bus companies that run between the major hubs in Ireland and Northern Ireland. This is also sometimes called “hub travel” and is the best way to see the country on (somewhat) your own terms without renting a car.

The national bus company of Ireland is Bus Eireann which provides transportation throughout Ireland and Northern Ireland. They have a very extensive route map with hubs in the larger cities of Dublin, Wexford, Cork, Limerick, Galway, Derry (Northern Ireland) and Belfast (Northern Ireland).

During our 2 week trip to Ireland, we took Bus Eirerran from Dublin, Cork, Galway, and Belfast and had a great experience. It’s easy to check the time tables online so you can plan your trip, and you can generally buy your ticket right at the station before you depart by cash or credit card.

The only thing to be aware of is that you will have to line up in order to board your bus and the line is first come, first serve. Catching our bus from Cork to Galway I was a bit worried we wouldn’t make it on because the line was really long (it was a Sunday). To be fair, they may have added a 2nd bus but I wasn’t sure and it made me really nervous! I would definitely recommend getting to the station early to give yourself time to buy your ticket and get a good spot in line, especially if you are traveling on a weekend day.

Other main bus services include:

AirCoach, which mainly runs between the Dublin Airport and other locations such as Dublin City Center, Belfast, Cork City, and smaller Dublin suburbs
JJ Kavanaugh, another bus service that caters to routes between the Dublin Airport, suburbs and other city hubs.
CityLink, offering routes between Dublin Airport & Center to Cork Airport & City, Limerick, Galway & Clifden.

You can check each company’s individual website to see if they offer the destination you are trying to reach. Some smaller or more remote destinations will be impossible to reach solely by public transport, but by getting yourself to a hub you will have the option of doing a private tour or taxi from there.

Bus Tour Groups

Another option of traveling Ireland by bus is going on a pre-arranged guided tour bus. This is not an option I prefer because I like the freedom of choosing my own timetable and having a bit more flexibility. However, if you do enjoy not having to think about or plan your trip in great detail, this might be a good option for you!

If you go with this option all you have to do is book the tour, pay a deposit and wait for your trip to begin. With this option, your daily schedule, hotels, and even most dining options will be pre-planned for you. Internet searches will bring you countless options for routes and itineraries and you can choose a tour that caters to your personal needs and interests. Make sure to spend time looking through your options and reading reviews of former participants to see if the tour is a good fit.

If you are solo traveling, a tour can also be a good way to not feel so alone and meet other travelers. If you’re worried about traveling with others in your own age range (stereotypically bus tours are known to attract older travelers or young families only), check the reviews to see if there is any information about the age of the average participant. TourRadar is a website where you can search tours specifically by age range to find something that suits your needs.

Another option would be to combine hub travel with a tour if you want to mainly travel between major cities but want to also include a trip to a more remote spot with more guidance. For example, while we took a public bus from Dublin to Belfast, we also did a Game of Thrones Tour from Belfast for a day with a large group and were able to see more sites this way like the Giant’s Causeway and Dark Hedges. We also learned a lot from our guide!

Sample Ireland Bus Trip Itinerary

If you’re still not sure if and how traveling around Ireland by bus can be done, I also wanted to provide you with a sample Ireland Bus Trip Itinerary! This is based on the route that my friend Molly and I took last spring and I felt we were able to see a lot of the country this way.

Destinations: Cork City, Kinsale, Galway, Belfast, Dublin

Day 1: Arrive at Dublin Airport
Take Bus Eireann from Dublin Airport to Cork City
Spend the night in Cork City (Stay: The Townhouse)
Dinner Recommendation: Market Lane

Day 2: Spend the morning in Cork City
Lunch Recommendation: Tara’s Tea Room (Cork)
Take an afternoon bus to Kinsale from Cork City Bus Station (Parnell Place)
Sleep in Kinsale (Stay: Kinsale Cosy Studio)

Days 3-6: Kinsale
See my post on A Getaway in Colorful Kinsale, Ireland for all the details of our Kinsale stay!
Morning of Day 6 take a bus to Cork City.
Grab lunch on the go in Cork City (depending on the timing of your bus)
and take bus from Cork City Bus Station (Parnell Place) to Galway

Days 6-8: Galway
We spent our whole time in Galway in the city but from Galway you can also take a group tour bus to the Cliffs of Moher, Burren, Connemara, Kylemore Abbey, and the Aran Islands.
Morning of Day 8 Take a bus from Galway Coach Station to Dublin Airport (Express), then bus from Dublin Airport to Belfast (Express). Note this was our longest travel day at about 4 hours of travel total.

Days 8-10: Belfast
See my post 2 Nights in Belfast for all the details of our Belfast stay, including information on our Black Taxi Tour and Game of Thrones tour.
We returned to Dublin by way of our Game of Thrones Tour, which originally left from Dublin in the morning and picked us up in Belfast. We stayed on the bus at the end of the tour, saving us a separate bus ride to Dublin.

Days 11-12: Dublin
Day 12: Depart from Dublin Airport

Whether you’re planning on spending days or weeks in Ireland and don’t want to rent a car, I hope this guide is helpful and shows you that it is not only possible to travel Ireland by bus but also recommended if you are uncomfortable driving a car there. Go n-éirí an bóthar leat (may the journey be successful for you)!

Visiting the town of Kinsale while traveling by bus in Ireland — View of Kinsale

Don’t forget to PIN this post for when you plan your bus trip through Ireland!

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Marseille Provence Travel

5 Unique Day Trip Ideas from Marseille, France

January 4, 2020

Bonjour! If you’re no stranger to my blog and Instagram account, you know Marseille has become my home away from home. My husband’s family is from there and we go at least once a year. Marseille is a diamond in the rough, and I certainly advocate spending at least 3 days exploring the city itself. (See: my Guide to Marseille and my Instagram Guide to Marseille). If you find yourself wanting to wander off the beaten path though, I have 5 unique day trip ideas from Marseille that will make you fall in love with the surrounding area.

Cassis & Bandol

You may have heard of Cassis, the candy hued, charming (& somewhat touristy) seaside town. Maybe I’m biased because it’s where I got engaged, but I think it lives up to it’s hype. About a half an hour from Marseille by car, the view when approaching Cassis is one of my favorites in the world. The stunning red cliff of the Cap Canaille, the endless aqua of the Mediterranean, gorgeous houses dotting the mountain side…wow. It is simply breathtaking.

What to Do in Cassis

I would suggest leaving late morning from Marseille to start your day. You only need an hour or so in the village itself. There are a few dozen cute boutiques & souvenir shops and plenty of choices for food. I love picking one of the places on the waterfront for lunch (I’m not loyal to any one in particular) and dining on Moule Frites. If you still have room, head to Amorino Gelato for a tasty (and Insta-worthy) rose shaped cone. There is often a little market in the central Place Baragnon. The typical French Market is on Wednesdays and Fridays but they have traveling and art markets as well.

If you are interested in seeing the Calanques (beautiful inlets that dot the coast around Marseille), you can take a cruise from the harbor. The price and duration vary depending on how many Calanques you want to see and what time of year it is. If the weather is nice, it’s definitely a good option! (Plan to leave earlier if you plan to see the village, do the cruise, AND still want to see Bandol).

Onward to Bandol

As you enter and leave Cassis, you will see plenty of vineyards where you can stop and taste wine. Unlike most of Provence which specializes in rosé, Cassis is known for it’s full-bodied and herbaceous white wines. While Mike and I usually try our luck stopping at random places along the way, here is a more detailed guide to region if you would like specific vineyard recs.

As you head towards Bandol (30 mins further east down the coast), you will pass many more vineyards. Even though the wine region is named for the seaside town, you won’t find any vineyards in the city center. In contrast to Cassis, Bandol is known for it’s earthy reds but also makes great whites and rosés. Taking the A50 towards La Ciotat/Toulon towards Bandol will take you past the villages of La Cadière d’Azur, Le Castellet, in the heart of the region. This guide will point you in the direction of specific wineries if you’re looking to plan in more detail.

This should go without saying that you should always have a designated driver if you plan on tasting wine – those sips can add up quick and France’s love of wine doesn’t cancel out their enforcement of drunk driving laws.

If you have time, continuing on to the village of Bandol would be a nice way to end the day. It is a fun and festive seaside town with quaint streets plenty of options for food to soak up all that wine.

Once you are satiated and tired, you only have a 42 minute drive back to Marseille.

Six-Fours-les-Plages

Another gem along the coast that I wanted to make sure to include in my guide to 5 unique day trip ideas from Marseille is Six-Fours-les-Plages. Take the A50 from Marseille towards Toulon and you’ll be there in about an hour. We didn’t spend much time in the center of Six-Fours and instead continued towards the sea to the smaller commune of Le Brusc, which I would recommend. It’s quaint with a distinctly local feel. You can pass through the little town by car and park in the paid lot further down towards the water.

Here the shore is rocky with pretty formations and tide pools and you can jump right in for a pleasant dip. We were there for golden & blue hour which were particularly beautiful. Adjacent to the coastline is a small island called Île du Petit Gaou which is reachable by foot bridge. There are walking paths to enjoy the beautiful nature, majestic cliffs and breathtaking views.

Scenes from Le Brusc & Île du Petit Gaou

There are a few nice restaurants close to island which offer amazing views. We chose to do a casual dinner of pizza back in the little village of Le Brusc which we ate on benches overlooking the harbor accompanied with rosé in plastic cups.

I would suggest allowing yourself a full afternoon here and ending up with sunset drinks and dinner. Six-Four/Le Brusc could also be paired with a morning trip to Cassis or Bandol.

Côte Bleue

So you’ve heard of the Côte d’Azur but have you heard of the Côte Bleue? I hadn’t until I started visiting Marseille regularly. The Côte Bleue is a charming piece of coastline between Marseille and Martigues, with the Mediterranean on one side and the Etang de Berre on the other. You’ll find quaint and lesser known fishing villages and beaches to keep to occupied on your day trip.

L’Estaque

Driving East from Marseille you can start in L’Estaque which is a suburb of Marseille and worth checking out either on your way out or on your way back. This little village has been an inspiration to many artists over the years including Cézanne, Renoir and Georges Braque.

Carry-le-Rouet

Further west you will find the village of Carry-le-Rouet, another seaside resort town which is favored as a summer retreat by the locals. Besides the cute downtown and harbor there is a coastal footpath where you can walk along the sea and four different beaches:

Le Rouet: the first beach in town and the most popular,
Cap Rousset: a natural limestone cove
Fernandel: in the center of town
Les Beaumettes: edge of town, stone and shallow water

Fun fact: Carry-le-Rouet is known as the “sea urchin capital” and even has a designated urchin month (February) with events and tastings!

Martigues

After you can head to Martigues, a colorful village known as the “Venice of Provence”. It’s bright buildings and bridges were definitely reminiscent of the famed Italian city, however even in the middle of summer there were no crowds. The Moiroir aux Oiseaux, a little port along Quai Brescon, was particularly picturesque and also a famed spot among painters.

Road to Valensole

I’m sure you’ve heard of Valensole (hello, Lavender fields?). Not so unique, you might say. BUT- I want to recommend a few places surrounding the famed plateau that you may not have on your radar, qualifying it as one of my unique day trip ideas from Marseille. The places below are a bit on the further side for a day trip so I would suggest leaving early if you want to get the most out of your day!

When you go to Valensole during off season 🙂

Gréoux-les-Bains

A cute little town with shops, colorful buildings and cafes with outdoor seatings for prime people watching! It also home to a thermal bath healthy center at which you can prebook health treatments for an extended period of time. If you’re just there for the day though and want to enjoy some pampering, there are facilities to book day treatments.

Moustiers-Sainte-Marie

We loved visiting this quaint perched village! Also simply known as “Moustiers”, this pedestrian town has waterfalls woven through it’s streets and a glorious view of the valley below. It’s also well known for it’s beautiful and uniquely hand-painted ceramics called faïence. You will see many shops with plenty of opportunities to stock up on unique souvenirs (although they are not cheap!) Also make sure to be respectful in the shops as a lot of them have signs that say “no photos.”

As you drive up the hill to approach the building there are parking lots where you can leave your vehicle and continue on foot into the town.

Sainte-Croix-du-Verdon

Sainte-Croix-du-Verdon is a small town overlooking the beautiful Lac Sainte Croix (which I also recommend visiting if you have time!) In fact, you can take a quick visit to the lakeshore below the village and then drive up the hill for the view. The view, in fact is the main attraction and we’ve come back several times to have dinner at Le Comptoir. I still think about the lavender honey & goat cheese bruschetta and dessert plate I ate there, and the scenery is truly unbeatable.

Camargue

To conclude my 5 unique day trip ideas from Marseille I present you with The Camargue. It’s a natural park area in Provence, known for it’s marshy land, birdwatching & wildlife, salt flats & quaint villages, just west of Marseille and the Côte Bleue. I would definitely recommend checking it out if you’re interested in distinct landscape and natural beauty.

Aigues-Mortes

Aigue-Mortes is an old medieval walled city with towers, lots of shops & restaurants. It is at the edge of a large pink body of water known as an Etang, or Lagoon that gets it’s color from the high concentration of salt in it. You can take a guided tour of the salt flats on a little train – cost is around 10 Euros. It was a neat and unique experience! You can also find WILD PINK FLAMINGOS as well as over 400 species of birds. Wild horses and cattle roam the rolling landscape, which looks a bit like a Monet painting.

Arles

While in the area, you can also visit the village of Arles, made famous in part by Vincent Van Gogh’s painting “Cafe at Night” (here is where the cafe can be found). You can even take a Van Gogh Walking Tour organized by the tourism office! Other things to visit are the Roman Amphitheater, Ancient Theater, several museums and of course, shops & cafes.

Conclusion

So, here you have it: 5 unique day trips from Marseille! If you can’t get enough of this region like me, check out my guides for Visiting Provence in Autumn and My Favorite Spots in Provence. If you scroll back up I’ve also provided a handy dandy MAP of all the places I’ve talked about here and color coded it by trip for your convenience. I hope this guide was helpful to you and that you enjoy your time in Provence, wherever it takes you!

Don’t forget to PIN this post for your trip:

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Florence Italy Travel

Where to Eat in Florence, Italy

November 17, 2019

So you’re wondering where to eat in Florence, Italy during your trip? I’ll just say it: it’s pretty hard to eat a bad meal in Florence. You’ve got all the best ingredients, a history and culture that revolves around food & wine, and…gelato.

While it IS easy to find good food in Florence, the number of choices can also be overwhelming. When I studied abroad there in 2007, I didn’t do much dining out because I was a poor student and often cooked at home with my roommates. Fast forward 10+ years, returning as a “real adult” with a little more disposable income, I was ready to eat my way through the city!

I’m going to tell you about my favorite places to eat in Florence, including some OG favorites from my study abroad days that are still just as good.

Where to Eat at Breakfast Time

Bambi Caffe, San Lorenzo Market | Mercato Centrale di San Lorenzo, ingresso da via dell’Ariento, 50123

A fun (and delicious) way to start your day is at the San Lorenzo Market: an iconic spot in Florence. The outdoor area has stalls selling leather goods, scarves, stationary Murano glass, etc. Head inside though to satisfy any Italian food craving you might have (and stock up on souvenirs of the culinary variety). Stop at Bambi Caffe for a pastry and espresso, the simple and typical Italian breakfast. If you want a real treat, order a Caffe Pistachio, with layers of espresso, pistachio cream, whipped cream and crushed Pistachio nuts. Yum!

Where to Have Nice Eats/Drinks

La Menagere | Via De’ Ginori 8r, 50123, Florence, Italy

One of my 2 favorites of the trip, La Menagere is an industrial chic vision with sophisticated fare to match it’s dreamy decor. Part cafe/bar, part fancy restaurant, part boutique, part florist, everything is a visual delight. We opted for the cafe part and I had the avocado toast with smoked salmon and pistachio – it was amazing! Prices range from mid range to high end, depending on if you dine in the cafe part or restaurant. Go during the week for lunch if you want less chance of a wait.

Simbiosi | via De’ Ginori 56R Ristorante: via De’ Ginori 58R / 60R

We stumbled upon the Simbiosi trio while walking from the Duomo to our accommodation and it became our other favorite dining and drinking spot. I call it a “trio” because even though it all has the same name and owner, there are 3 separate restaurants (and all are organic!): Pizza, Pasta & Bar/Cafe. Throughout our stay we enjoyed bar snacks, spritzes and delicious rose Lambrusco at the bar/cafe Simbiosi. We also got the chance to dine at the pasta restaurant

Osteria Vecchio Viccolo | Via Lambertesca 16r, 50122, Florence, Italy

Where should you eat in Florence near the Ufizzi and Ponte Vecchio? The cute bike in front attracted me to this delightful restaurant. Excellent pizza and pasta with wonderful service. Grab a table near the front to observe all the foot traffic.

Tosca Nino La Terrazza | Piazza Della Repubblica, Rinascente 4 Et 5 Piano, 50123, Florence, Italy

This is where to go for THE VIEW! Also simply known as “La Terazza”, it’s the cafes sits atop La Rinascente department store off the Palazzo Della Repubblica. It offers various light bites and meal options as well as an extensive cocktail menu (11-14 Euros per cocktail). It is super busy so I would suggest Tuesday or Wednesday for golden hour. Expect the prices to match the opulence of the view but it’s a worthwhile splurge.

Booking.com

Where to Eat Quick Bites

Pizzicheria Guadagni | Via Isola delle Stinche 4/r, 50122, Florence, Italy

When I studied abroad, this was the spot I grabbed lunch every day! A family run centrally located deli, Stefano and/or his wife Stefania will make you an excellent sandwich. I was so happy to go back and find them still there. You can eat in the little courtyard outside of the shop or take your goods with you as you make your way from the Duomo to the museums.

Proccaci | Via Dei Tornabuoni 64/R, 50123, Florence, Italy

Speaking of truffles – I read about this place in a Conde Nast article about NON touristy places to eat in Florence. Procacci specializes in mini truffle sandwiches (uh-mazing) and homemade tomato juice, served up like a Bloody Mary (minus the alcohol) with all the fixin’s. It’s located among the high end shopping district so it feels extra fancy, but the sandwiches are only 2.50 Euros each.

Where to Eat Something Sweet

Badiani Gelato | Viale dei Mille, 20/R, Florence, Italy

Okay, okay. Gelato is literally EVERYWHERE in Florence. Not all of it is good, and a lot of it is overpriced, unfortunately. But I have on great authority that this is the best gelato shop in the city! It’s located a few blocks away from my former study abroad apartment (dangerous) and I remembered it being amazing.

What a delight to go back and experience it again! So many good and interesting flavors and a big cafe where you can sit and enjoy. It’s a bit off the beaten path near the soccer stadium, but honestly worth it in my opinion.

Just please don’t make the mistake of buying 10 euro mediocre gelato from a shop near the Duomo or the Ponte Vecchio!

Buon Appetito!

In conclusion, you’ll see there is no shortage of amazing spots to eat in Florence. This is just a snippet of what this city has to offer, but I think it’s better to go with a plan because each meal you get to experience here is valuable. I hope this guide is helpful and that you enjoy Firenze (I know you will!)

Make sure to pin this for your trip to Florence!

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Italy Travel Tuscany

Tuscany in the Fall : 5 Reasons to Visit

November 3, 2019

Tuscany in the Fall: has a nice ring to it right? While the most popular time to visit this region is in the summer, it can be hot, crowded and expensive. The fall, though? Bellisima! We just got back from 3 days in Tuscany in late October and wow was it spectacular. I’m going to tell you the 5 reasons why a trip to Tuscany in the fall will make your year.

1. The Weather

Now I’ll be honest, I wasn’t quite sure how the weather situation would shake out for us. I’ve heard that it can go either way for late October. I was checking obsessively every day, seeing rain in the forecast but hoping it would change. Luckily for our 3 days in Tuscany we had ABSOLUTELY perfect weather*. An average of 75 degrees daily, almost no clouds.

*Just as an FYI: the locals told us the weather in late October is usually chillier and more overcast. Of course, no one can 100% predict the weather but planning your trip for late September/Early October might be safer for expecting those perfect temps.

(From top left: Views near our AirBnB, Sunny days in Siena, Approaching Golden Hour near Asciano.)

2. The Prices

I had to rub my eyes in disbelief when checking AirBnB pricing for Tuscany for our trip. Everything looked amazing and most options were under $150 a night (for 4 people!) I’m talking stone villas with pools and unreal views. We ended up booking this option which had an infinity pool, hot tub, fireplace and 2BR 2BATH, all for $108/night.

Chianti for Four (AirBnB)

Scenes from our AirBnB

“There are almost no words to describe how perfect our stay was at this property. We had the place virtually to ourselves as it was off season and it felt like our own little Tuscan Paradise. The view and the accommodations are even better than the photos and we thoroughly enjoyed the use of the hot tub & fireplace. It was a bit chilly to use the infinity pool but it was still open, enhancing the view. With 2 couples staying there it was perfect -you have your own private area of the house with your own bathroom and can use the common areas together.
Fernando, the local host provides plenty of tips about the area, restaurant recommendations, and you can look forward to a gifted a bottle of olive oil that he harvested as well as a bottle of local wine. It’s a bit off the beaten path, so quiet, but within a 30 minute drive of Siena and the Val d’Orcia. I would 100% stay here again and recommend to anyone looking to have a tranquil and relaxing vacation in Tuscany.”
My review for our AirBnB

3. The Scenery

Driving around the countryside I had Sting’s “Fields of Gold” playing in my head constantly, as it is an accurate description of what was surrounding me. Tuscany in Autumn is literally rolling golden hills dotted with vines and cyprus trees (with the occasional villa). It’s breathtaking and dreamy and can’t be missed.

I would recommend doing a day of driving around the Val D’Orcia (a Unesco World Heritage Sight), which is known as the prettiest drive in Tuscany.

Great stops along the way:

Buonconvento: Charming walled village, great spot for lunch
Capella Madonna di Vitaleta: Tiny chapel in the middle of a field
Winding Road near Asciano: Gorgeous view (see top photo in post), go for golden hour
Pienza: Another walled city, very charming.

(From top left: Aperol Spritz in Buonconvento, Rolling Hills in Val D’Orcia, Twirling near the Tuscan Winding Road, Tiny Bouquet at the Capellla, the Streets of Pienza.)

Here is a Google Map of the spots we visited in the Val D’Orcia for easy reference, also with the approximate location of the AirBnB:

4. The Seasonal Food/Drink

The region of tuscany is filled with farms so there is no shortage of fresh and local eats. Truffles are in season in autumn and therefor easier to obtain and afford. Speaking of mushrooms, Porcini are also in season and perfect with pasta. The farmers are harvesting the olives for new oil, the grapes for wine. If you are a meat eater, wild boar is hunted in the fall so the charcuterie game is strong.

If you want an amazing farm-to-table culinary experience with a killer view (and animal friends), head to Podere Il Casale for an incredible meal. I recommend sampling the cheese plate (Pienza is known for it’s cheese) and homemade pasta. Walk to grounds to say hi to the resident fluffy dog, a heard of friendly goats, a loud burro and colorful peacocks.

A Few Other Places we Ate/Drank along the way:

La Locanda Dei Grulli | Via Vittorio Veneto 6 | Ambra Pietraviva, 52021, Bucine, Italy

A nice local restaurant with a mini Italian grocery on site. Delicious food and good service!

Fabbrica Pienza

A very modern organic vineyard with a sleek tasting room. 10 Euroes for 3 (hefty) tastes. Enjoy the sculpture on the grounds by Ugo Rondinone, the same artist who did the 7 Magic Mountains in Vegas. Tasting room open April-Late October.

Scenes from Podere Il Casale near Pienza

5. The Crowds

Or should I say, the lack of crowds? Not only was it easy to find a place to book only a week in advance, we were also able to see a lot of the “popular” sights in the region without throngs of people. The famous winding road and the Capella Madonna di Vitaleta were both surprisingly uncrowded (the former we even visited during golden hour and still got amazing “people free” photos.)

In conclusion, the fall is a perfect time to visit Tuscany. Have I convinced you yet? Your eyes, stomach and wallet will certainly thank you.

For other Fall Travel ideas, visit my guide to visiting Provence in Autumn!

Make sure to pin this post for when you plan your trip!

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Ireland Kinsale Travel

A Getaway in Colorful Kinsale, Ireland

July 5, 2019

Even though I’ve been to Ireland 3 separate times, each trip has held special meaning for me. My first trip was during St. Patrick’s Day weekend when I was studying abroad in Italy, visiting my friend who was studying in Cork. I had dreamed of visiting Ireland since I was a little girl (for some reason I always felt a pull to the idea of it’s rolling green hills) and so my first brief trip there was a realization of that dream. My second trip there was also special because it was with my love (at the time my soon-to-be fiance who is now my husband) and it was to celebrate my 30th birthday.

This most recent trip was also special, as I traveled with my best friend Molly. Molly and I met our freshman year of college in the dorms and had always talked about doing a trip to Ireland together. The trip was over 10 years in the making but we actually did it and had an amazing time touring around together! After spending our first night night in Cork City, our next stop was the colorful and quaint Kinsale, a seaside village on the south coast of County Cork. Molly had a particularly important reason to visit Kinsale: not only did her great grandfather grow up here but she also has relatives still living in the town!

Imagine walking into a local shop in Ireland and telling the person working there that you are actually their cousin visiting from America!

That was the scene when Molly and I walked into Mylie Murphy’s Bike & Bait Shop and were greeted by Gillian, Molly’s cousin with whom we soon became fast friends. Between loaning us bikes to explore with, chatting over photography and Instagram strategies (Gillian owns a LOVELY plant and gift shop in Kinsale, see below) and enjoying a (few) bottles of white wine over lunch, Kinsale became a destination that will hold a special place in my heart.

Candy colored shops, locals enjoying an ice cream cone from the local Centra, sailboats on the horizon and fields of colorful yellow flowers – Kinsale is postcard perfect! We stayed there for 4 nights and it was a great amount of time to explore and relax. I would certainly recommend stopping by for at least a day if you are visiting Cork City, and staying for a few nights if you have the time. We were there in late April and it was still a bit chilly but very popular – I can only imagine how lively it gets during the summer months.

WHERE TO STAY

Kinsale Cozy Studio/Tiny House

We had a wonderful 4 night stay at Rosemarie’s adorable cottage! Rosemarie went above and beyond to make our stay comfortable, starting with picking us up at the bus so we wouldn’t have to walk with our bags which we really appreciated. She and her dog Curly were so friendly and gave us plenty of tips on where to go and what to do in Kinsale. The cottage was beautifully decorated and well equipped with breakfast and snack staples and toiletries. The location was close to the main village (about a 5 minute walk) and the front yard had a gorgeous view of the water. I would definitely stay here again and would recommend to anyone planning to stay in Kinsale.

Rosemarie’s adorable cottage

FAVORITE EATS

Bulman | Summercove, Kinsale, Co. Cork, Ireland

A colorful (and popular!) spot on the outskirts of town as you head towards Charles Fort. The inside has a cozy and jovial atmosphere while the outside affords you a great view of the water. Come a little after lunch hour in order to try to avoid the crowds.

Fishy Fishy | Crowleys Quay, Kinsale Co, Co. IE, Ireland

If you love seafood and want to treat yourself to a nice lunch or dinner, this is your place! We had an amazing meal here with Molly’s family. Delicious mussels, seafood pie and a rhubarb cobbler that was the perfect ending to the meal, washed down by a bottle (or 2?) of the house white wine. Elegant atmosphere and great service.

Fishy Fish Pie

UNIQUE SHOPPING

Greenhouse & Other Stories | 8 Pearse Street, Kinsale, Ireland Co. Cork

Molly’s cousin Gillian owns this adorable shop filled with beautiful plants and curated gifts including stationary, pots, jewelry children’s clothing. I would definitely recommend stopping by if you’re looking for something unique to bring home for someone, or a little gift for yourself.

Aesthetically pleasing display at Greenhouse & Other Stories

Rain Bath & Beauty | 42 Main Street, Kinsale, Co. Cork, Ireland

Assortment of gorgeous responsible and ethical beauty products – a great shop to buy something to pamper yourself with.

Gourmet Pantry | 4 Market St, Sleveen, Cork, Ireland

We did a lot of self-catering in Kinsale for our evening meals (buying prepared foods, cheeses, wines etc and bringing them to our AirBnB.) While there are a few groceries downtown, this shop has higher quality and locally made items – perfect for a picnic, aperitif or souvenirs to bring home (jams, crackers, etc).

LIVE MUSIC & NIGHTLIFE

Dalton’s Bar | 3A Market St, Sleveen, Kinsale, Co. Cork, P17 E068, Ireland

Molly is a huge fan of traditional Irish music, so we went out to listen to a session pretty much every night. That said, we had our best live music experience in Kinsale at Dalton’s Bar during our first night out in Kinsale. We went in on a Monday night, which is when they have an open mic situation of sorts called a “sing-a-long” with a local band to back up the hauntingly beautiful melodies. Cozy interior with a fireplace, friendly bartenders, and unlike more touristy places that play the same 5 Irish songs to a raucous audience, during these sessions everyone shushes the patrons before the person starts singing so everyone can listen and enjoy. It was a genuinely moving experience and I would definitely recommend this place especially if you are here on a night they are doing a sing-a-long.

The Harbour Bar | Scilly, Kinsale, Ireland

Off the beaten path, this bar was truly unique. It’s inside a house where the owner has turned his first floor into a pub. You grab a drink from the fridge (bottled beer, wine and mixed drinks only), pay, and make yourself at home while his little jack russell terrier might jump into your lap. There is old fashioned decor, a TV with the game on, a local crowd and a stunning view of the Harbour (hence, the name).

ACTIVITIES

Drive out to The Old Head

About a 10 – 15 minute drive from downtown, the Old Head is a must see. Like a mini Cliffs of Moher, it’s adjacent to a well known golf course and is the closest piece of land to where the RMS Lusitania sank. We went during golden hour to check it out and it was absolutely stunning, especially with all the seabirds flying around below us. It would be a gorgeous spot for an evening picnic or to take photos.

Scilly Walk/Charles Fort

There is a nice walking path from downtown Kinsale to Charles Fort. (We actually took bikes even though I don’t think you are technically supposed to bike on the walking trail.) You can take Lower Road and follow it from the downtown up to the Spaniard Bar, then past the Bulman Pub and out to the fort. You pass great views and lovely homes along the way, there and back is a little over 5km.

Explore Downtown Kinsale

Kinsale’s downtown is incredibly charming. I am a sucker for colorful waterfront towns and Kinsale certainly hits the mark. There are plenty of cute shops to explore, cafes to duck into and the locals we met were all very friendly. If you get the chance to immerse yourself in this place for a few days, definitely do so.

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