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Staying in Les Goudes – Your Guide

September 6, 2022
Photo of Les Goudes, Marseile with view of harbor flanked by pink flowers and mountains in the background

Want to have a unique and charming home base for exploring Marseille? If so, staying in Les Goudes is a great choice! It’s a way to be close to the action while getting to experience an authentic fisherman’s village. Picture a small peninsula jutting into the bright blue Mediterranean waters, a few winding streets lined with small fisherman’s cabins. Seafood restaurants, playing children, and the occasional friendly feline line the way. A little slice of heaven just minutes from Marseille’s bustling city center, you can view the mountains and the sea and enjoy some R&R.

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About Les Goudes

Once upon a time, Les Goudes was a sparsely populated industrial port that was built in the early nineteenth century. As time went on the village expanded, making it closer to the city and a desirable place for boaters and fishermen to build their little “cabanon“. Today Les Goudes has the privilege of being located at the edge of the Calanques National Park, providing it protection from overdevelopment. It is, however, becoming more touristy and can become quite crowded in the summer months. By staying in Les Goudes however, you can make sure to be the first one at the beach in the morning as you won’t have to search for parking!

Photo of an almost empty street in the village of Les Goudes

Staying in Les Goudes: Getting There

By Plane

Since staying in Les Goudes means you will be staying on the outskirts of Marseille, the best airport to fly to is the Marseille Provence Airport (code: MRS). If you’re traveling from the United States, you will be pressed to find a direct flight, however, you can usually find a good flight that routes through a major hub such as Lisbon (TAP Portugal), Paris (Air France), London (British Airways), or Frankfurt (United/Lufthansa).

If you are traveling from within Europe, the airport is also serviced by several European budget airlines such as RyanAir, Vueling, and EasyJet. As I mention below, the easiest way to get from the airport to Les Goudes is by renting a car.

By Car

When exploring the small villages in the South of France, my recommendation is always to rent a car. It is usually fairly inexpensive and an easy experience at this small airport. I recommend renting the car online before you travel to France, as we’ve found prices to be cheaper when renting from a US IP address. Once you pick up your car, you can simply type “Les Goudes” into your GPS, and you should arrive in Les Goudes within an hour!

By Train/Bus

Marseille has a large train station in the city center that is serviced by routes from Aix en Provence, Avignon, Brussels, Geneva, Lille, Lyon, Nice, Toulon, Arles, Barcelona, Dijon, Frankfurt, Hyères, Madrid, Montpellier, Nantes and Strasbourg.

Once you arrive at Marseille St. Charles station, you can take the Metro Red Line towards Ste. Marguerite Dromel and get off at Castellane, where you can hop on the #19 bus and ride it all the way to Madrague De Montredon (the last stop). There you can switch to the #20 bus to Callelongue and get off at Les Goudes stop.

Obviously, this is way more time-consuming and cumbersome but I completely understand the hesitation to drive in a strange city. One plus of getting here by public transport is that you will not need to worry about parking!

Your metro ticket will cost you 1.70 Euros and includes your bus transfer (you just have to switch within an hour).

By Boat

Another public transport option that is more scenic (and in my opinion, more fun), is the water taxi! For this, you would take the Blue Line metro from the train station, towards La Fourragere. Get off at the Vieux Port, where you can find the water taxi right at the top of the port (adjacent to a huge pavilion with a mirrored ceiling).

Make sure you see the words “Pointe Rouge” on the sign, as this is where the first boat will go and then you will switch there for the boat that takes you to Les Goudes. You can get in line here and pay for your ticket on the boat, seats are first come, first serve. The price for the ticket is 8 Euros one way and you can find the schedules and updated pricing here.

When to Go

If you’re planning on staying in Les Goudes, when is the best time to go? I say this ad nauseam, but in my opinion, the absolute best time to visit the South of France is early Fall (September through early October). The weather is beautiful but not too hot, the prices are lower and the summer crowds have dispersed. Ah, and, maybe most importantly, parking will be much less of a headache! We stayed here in August and while it was nice, it was very hot and parking was quite tough. If you need more assurances that Autumn in Provence is the best time, see my post on Visting Provence in Autumn.

Where to Sleep While Staying in Les Goudes

Because Les Goudes has been saved from overdevelopment, you will not find five-star resorts or chain hotels here. The best place to stay in Les Goudes for an authentic experience is in one of the fishermen’s cabanon for rent via AirBnB or VRBO. If you want to get a great choice of accommodation, I would suggest reserving early, especially if you plan to visit during the popular summer months. We were able to find our place pretty last minute but there weren’t very many options left (luckily we loved our place!)

Also keep in mind that as traditional fishermen’s cabins, a lot of these places are small and cozy. I have however included a few larger ones.

I’ve already found the best listings for you for your trip below! (Including the one we stayed at for our week in Les Goudes):

Love the terrace at this cosy cabin, and the price can’t be beat!

I walked by this cute blue house every day – the charming roofdeck and great location, makes it a no brainer.

I love that this one has a jacuzzi on the terrace! Would be so nice especially once temps cool off a bit.

This listing boasts a beautiful terrace with a view of the sea. Can’t you just imagine enjoying sunset here?

Another great listing for a larger group!

Last but not least, the above listing is where we stayed this summer. While it doesn’t have a sea view, the mountain view in the evening was beautiful. The inside was clean, spacious and well equipped but I would recommend it for the terrace alone!

View of Airbnb terrace in the village of Les Goudes, Marseille France
Our AirBnB terrace with mountain views.

What to Eat

I think the obvious choice of what to eat when staying in Les Goudes is clear: seafood! The village boasts a small but excellent restaurant selection as well as a few casual spots and a “superette” which has convenience items, limited groceries, and fresh bread daily. As you will see during your stay, Les Goudes is TINY, so everything is close together and within walking distance.

Casual Dining/Groceries

Feel Goudes Sandwich Shop
16 Rue Désiré Pelaprat, 13008 Marseille, France

Casual Spot at the top of the village offers fresh juices, croissants, sandwiches & traditional foods from the Reunion Islands.

20,000 Lieues
12 Bd Alexandre Delabre, 13008 Marseille, France

Amazing spot to grab a drink and watch the sunset. There is a full bar and a huge terrace with a festive vibe as well as pizzas, ice cream, and some small plates.

Signoret Eric
123 Bd Alexandre Delabre, 13008 Marseille, France

A general store that is also a “depot de pain”, meaning the owner fetches fresh bread from the city and brings it every morning for purchase.

Upscale Dining

Grand Bar des Goudes
29 avenue Desire Pellaprat les Goudes, 13008 Marseille France

This restaurant is a great choice for a nice meal out while staying in Les Goudes, as it is rated in the top 20 restaurants in all of Marseille on TripAdvisor! Review highlights mention the bouillabaisse (a MUST try in Marseille), friendly service, and amazing views of the harbor.

Auberge du Corsaire – Chez Paul
35 rue Desire Pellaprat, 13008 Marseille France

Another excellent choice on the main street of the village, fresh seafood and the view are also the stars here. They also serve pizza and have a lovely terrace.

La Marine des Goudes
16 rue Desire Pellaprat, 13008 Marseille France

As you might be sensing a trend here, amazing seafood is what this place is known for. Make sure to order 48 hours in advance if you are interested in trying the bouillabaisse.

What to Do

Beach

Cap Croisette/Baie de Singes

This is my favorite beach in Les Goudes because of its views and seclusion, however, it is the most “difficult” to reach. I put difficult in quotes because as far as Calanque hikes go in Marseille, this one is fairly easy.

Depending on how you arrive or where you park, you can take the road from the village that leads to the hiking path over the rocky hill to the cove or take the smaller path from the neighborhood street. The map below shows the village in relation to the beach as well as the main path and walking paths.

Map of Les Goudes, Marseille, France

This beach is very calm because it is enclosed by rocks and because of that is super family friendly! There is also a restaurant there called La Baie de Singes, which has mixed reviews but does offer private beach chairs for the day. For what it’s worth, we just brought our snacks and towels for the sand.

Woman and child on the beach at the Cap Croisette, Les Goudes, Marseille France
View of the beach at the Cap Croisette, Les Goudes, Marseille, France

Plage de la Maronaise

This beach is easier to get to from the village but (in my opinion), not as nice. It can get very crowded and can accumulate trash during the day due to its easy accessibility. It’s not a bad option though if you don’t feel like making the hike to the Cap Croisette. Fun fact: there actually used to be a nightclub at this location but it was demolished twelve years ago!

Hike

In addition to the small hike to the Cap Croisette (above), you can also embark on the Calanque de Marseilleveyre Loop from Les Goudes, starting with a walk along the road to the nearby port of Callelongue and over the rocky plataues. You will arrive at a small rocky calanque beach where you can swim and/or have a drink at the small bar.

This hike is between 2-3 hours total and is considered easy to moderate.

If you do have access to a car (or want to utilize the buses), you also aren’t very far from the Calanque de Sormiou (where you can park and hike to the beach) and Luminy the starting point for the hike to Sugiton (a much longer and more challenging hike).

Check out my other Marseille posts for more information on Les Calanques.

View of a street in Les Goudes, Marseille during golden hour.

As you can see, staying in Les Goudes is a great option for your trip to Marseille. Whether you’re hiking, relaxing at the beach, or enjoying a wonderful seafood meal with views of the harbor, your experience will be a unique and authentic one.

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France Marseille Travel

10 Amazing Things to Do in Marseille France

February 17, 2020
Beautiful view in Marseille

If you’ve looked into visiting the South of France, there are no doubt places like Nice, St. Tropez, Menton & Antibes have shown up on your radar. But what about Marseille? While not as popular as it’s flashy neighbors, Marseille is a beautiful and complex city with a diverse culture. I’m here to tell you that you should definitely add this diamond in the rough to your list, and give you 10 amazing things to do in Marseille when you visit!

10 Amazing Things to Do in Marseille France

Visit the Vieux Port

It’s the most iconic image of Marseille and most likely the first picture that will pop up when you search “Marseille” in your browser: the Vieux Port. The Vieux Port or “old port” of Marseille is a bustling center of activity with picturesque views of the harbor and Marseille’s rolling hills. One of the first things to do when you arrive in Marseille is to head to the port for a Pastis (the local liquor) at one of the many bars or cafes that line the port and people/boat watch.

There is usually a lot going on here, with boats coming and going to and from the Calanques and Frioul Island (see below) and there are a ton of bars, restaurants, shops, and nightclubs. If you go really early in the morning you can see the fisherman selling their fresh catches, and there are often also other little markets that pop up throughout the week.

The Vieux Port is easily reached by Marseille’s metro, which saves you the hassle of trying to find parking or paying for it in one of the garages. Day or night, this is a can’t miss thing to do in Marseille!

Take a Calanque Cruise

The Calanques are a series of inlets that run along the Mediterranean coast from Marseille to Cassis. If you like hiking, nature, and beautiful beaches, this is a must for any trip to the Marseille area. Most of them are only accessible on foot or by boat. The Calanques that you can hike to in Marseille include Callelongue, Sormiou, and Morgiou.

A great way to see many Calanques at once (and if you are limited on time to spend hiking to each one) is to do a Calanque cruise, which you can take right from the Vieux Port. The Croisières Marseille Calanques offers options to see all of the Calanques, the main Calanques, or organize a private group tour if you prefer. Departing from the corner of Quai des Belges and Quai d’Honneur, the price and duration vary depending on how many Calanques you want to see and what time of year it is. 

Taking a Calanque cruise, one of 10 Amazing things to do in Marseille.

See the Sunrise Over Sorimiou

Sormiou is one of the Calanques in Marseille and one of my favorites to visit. During peak season, May-early October, the narrow winding road that leads down to the Calanque is closed due to fire risk. Because of this the only way to reach it during this time is by parking at the top of the hill and walking the rest of the way down for bout 45 minutes of easy to moderate hiking.

We discovered, however, that if you go really early in the morning for sunrise, the gate is open you can access the road down to the Calanque and park there. To make it worth your while, the sun rises directly over the rocks and water of the Calanque, making for a truly stunning sight. It’s so peaceful in the morning before all the tourists arrive and to watch the sun come up and the colors change and reflect in the water is magnificent.

Make sure to leave yourself some extra time to stop at a boulangerie and pick up some breakfast treats to enjoy while you watch!

Sunrise at Sormiou, one of 10 Amazing things to do in Marseille.

Go to the Chateau D’If/Frioul Island

Both just a quick and inexpensive ferry ride from the Vieux Port, visiting the Chateau D’If and Frioul Island are 2 great things to do in Marseille. The Chateau D’If is a former fortress and prison and was used as the setting for Alexandre Dumas’ famous novel The Count of Monte Cristo. You can tour the fortress (which takes up most of the small island) which has been preserved as a museum. Even though the novel is a work of fiction, there is a cell that is designated to have belonged to the Count.

The Frioul Island is a bit further and has several nice beaches to explore. When you arrive at the small port there are a few snack bars and then you can walk to whichever beach you choose. Calanque de Morgiret beach (pictured below) is adjacent to the port and a short walk. If you are willing to walk a bit further to Plage de Saint-Estève turn right and follow the map path for a 20-minute walk to this beautiful beach (there are maps and signs). You will arrive at a beautiful rocky beach with crystal clear water. On the way, you will also catch scenic vistas of the Marseille skyline.

You can reach both destinations via the same ferry service from the Vieux Port. You will find the ticket station at the southeastern corner of the Vieux Port, which is also where the boat boards. Make sure you look at the different fairs, as you can get a ticket to either destination + return or a combo ticket + return if you want to see both. There are several departures throughout the day.

See the View from the Notre Dame de la Garde

Want to see the best view of Marseille? No contest, the Notre Dame de la Garde church offers the most stunning views of the city, mountains and the beautiful Mediterranean sea. Affectionately called La Bonne Mère (the good mother), the church is visible from most points in Marseille perched atop its hill, watching over the city.

It’s no wonder that the church is Marseille’s most visited tourist attraction, and you definitely have to add it to your list of things to do in Marseille. The church itself is gorgeous, constructed in the Byzantine revival style during the mid-nineteenth century. The interior is particularly unique with a maritime theme, filled with artwork on the walls depicting ships and even has wooden boats hanging from the ceiling.

In addition to the impressive church, the views surrounding it are just unreal. On a clear day, it feels like you can see forever. You can reach the church by driving and parking in one of the lots, walking up the very steep hill from the Vieux Port or taking one of the quaint tourist trains (also from the Vieux Port.) This is a spot that can’t be missed during your visit!

Try the famous Bouillabaisse Marseillais

When you mention that you went to Marseille, an inevitable question you will receive is, “Did you try the Bouillabaise?” Undoubtedly the most iconic food of the city, Bouillabaisse is a traditional fish stew consisting of rich and herbaceous broth, fresh seafood and served with a rouille (mayonnaise made of olive oil, garlic, red pepper, and saffron).

Traditionally, the soup was a poor man’s fisherman stew, using the fish that they couldn’t sell at the market that day. Ironically it has now become a fine delicacy that is served in fine restaurants at a high price point. Some restaurants (arguably the only ones that are doing it right), will require 24-48 hours notice if you will be ordering the bouillabaisse! The broth, rouille & crusty bread, and the fish is all served separately. The seafood part of the soup varies by what is available but must contain at least 4 of these fish: rockfish, spider crab,  red mullet, conger eel, and red scorpion fish.

Now, many places will advertise having “authentic bouillabaisse”, but you should be choosy about where you dine in order to ensure you are getting the real deal. Chez Fonfon is one of the most famous and recommended restaurants in Marseille for authentic bouillabaisse, as well as Chez Michel, L’Epuisette & Le Petit Nice. But beware, if you’re paying less than 50 euros per person, you’re just getting regular fish soup.

Go to an Open Market

One thing you must do in the South of France is to visit an outdoor market, and Marseille has some great ones! There is the fish market at the Vieux Port as I mentioned above. There are also often other little markets selling crafts or clothing that will set up around the Vieux Port on various days.

My favorite and most consistent/all-encompassing market though is the Marché Avenue du Prado. Here you will find everything from local food, fresh-cut flowers, clothing, accessories, jewelry, household goods and, of course, the famous Savon de Marseille (handmade soaps).

The market stretches down the Avenue du Prado to the Castellane metro station and is full of open-air booths and vendors waiting to bargain with you. This is where I buy my best souvenirs for others and for myself! What’s great is that it’s open every day (except Sunday) from 7:30 am to 1:30 pm, so you can always go back to get that one thing you forgot the day before. It’s a really fun experience and a great way to get your shopping done economically as you can get some really great bargains.

Check Out the Street Art

Marseille has some AMAZING street art, so naturally one of the best things to do in Marseille is going mural hunting! Fortunately, you don’t have to look too hard, as it seems like every corner you turn there is a colorful display covering a wall.

My 2 favorite neighborhoods in Marseille for street art are the Cours Julien and Le Panier, both with some amazing pieces. The Cours Julien has great shopping and restaurants as well and a fun hipster/boho vibe. Each alleyway you turn down is covered in pretty art and there is color everywhere.

The same goes for Le Panier, a neighborhood just adjacent to the Vieux Port. One of the oldest neighborhoods in Marseille, Le Panier has a distinctly old fashioned feel. Tiny streets with colorful facades and shutters, laundry hanging out the windows, endless street art…it’s a visual wonderland for photographers. 

Have a Picnic at the Beach

While Marseille is home to some amazing restaurants (and a few Michelin stars), my favorite thing to do in Marseille at mealtime is a simple picnic by the beach. There’s nothing better than stopping at a local boulangerie for sandwiches and quiches and heading to a Calanque or beach to enjoy a meal by the water.

For an extra-special picnic, stop at a Carrefour or Auchun (the 2 major grocery chains in Marseille) and also add olives, tabouli, a baguette and oozing creamy cheese to the mix. Oh and don’t forget the bottle of rosé!

Luckily Marseille has plenty of beaches to enjoy your picnic. There are the Calanques and Frioul Island which I mentioned above, as well as Les Goudes which is a small fishing village on the outskirts of Marseille towards Cassis with a small Calanque. Plage de la Pointe Rouge &  Plage du Prophete are the main beaches within the city of Marseille, which have more of a “city-beach” feel vs the nature of the Calanques.

See a Soccer Game at the Stade Vélodrome

The last but not least of the things to do in Marseille that I will recommend is to go see a soccer game at the Stade Vélodrome! The local team, Olympique de Marseille, are the soul of the city with the loudest and most loyal fans. If you haven’t been to a European soccer game before, I would definitely recommend it as the fans get really into it which makes it so much fun.

The stadium, Stade Vélodrome, is beautiful and newly renovated. The partial roof was added when France won the bid for the 2016 UEFA Euro Cup, finishing construction in 2014. Its unique structure stands out as part of the Marseille skyline and can be viewed from many spots throughout the city.

Check the schedule before your trip to see if there is a home game and if there is I would suggest trying to get tickets. You can buy them easily at the stadium or through a resale site called Viagogo. Tickets will cost between 20 and 40 euros retail and you can either sit in the stands or behind the goal with the huge block of fans (these are the less expensive and much rowdier seats).

Even though there are countless things to do in Marseille, these 10 things will really guarantee you have an amazing time and get the most out of your visit! Bon Voyage!

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Marseille Provence Travel

5 Unique Day Trip Ideas from Marseille, France

January 4, 2020

Bonjour! If you’re no stranger to my blog and Instagram account, you know Marseille has become my home away from home. My husband’s family is from there and we go at least once a year. Marseille is a diamond in the rough, and I certainly advocate spending at least 3 days exploring the city itself. (See: my Guide to Marseille and my Instagram Guide to Marseille). If you find yourself wanting to wander off the beaten path though, I have 5 unique day trip ideas from Marseille that will make you fall in love with the surrounding area.

Cassis & Bandol

You may have heard of Cassis, the candy hued, charming (& somewhat touristy) seaside town. Maybe I’m biased because it’s where I got engaged, but I think it lives up to it’s hype. About a half an hour from Marseille by car, the view when approaching Cassis is one of my favorites in the world. The stunning red cliff of the Cap Canaille, the endless aqua of the Mediterranean, gorgeous houses dotting the mountain side…wow. It is simply breathtaking.

What to Do in Cassis

I would suggest leaving late morning from Marseille to start your day. You only need an hour or so in the village itself. There are a few dozen cute boutiques & souvenir shops and plenty of choices for food. I love picking one of the places on the waterfront for lunch (I’m not loyal to any one in particular) and dining on Moule Frites. If you still have room, head to Amorino Gelato for a tasty (and Insta-worthy) rose shaped cone. There is often a little market in the central Place Baragnon. The typical French Market is on Wednesdays and Fridays but they have traveling and art markets as well.

If you are interested in seeing the Calanques (beautiful inlets that dot the coast around Marseille), you can take a cruise from the harbor. The price and duration vary depending on how many Calanques you want to see and what time of year it is. If the weather is nice, it’s definitely a good option! (Plan to leave earlier if you plan to see the village, do the cruise, AND still want to see Bandol).

Onward to Bandol

As you enter and leave Cassis, you will see plenty of vineyards where you can stop and taste wine. Unlike most of Provence which specializes in rosé, Cassis is known for it’s full-bodied and herbaceous white wines. While Mike and I usually try our luck stopping at random places along the way, here is a more detailed guide to region if you would like specific vineyard recs.

As you head towards Bandol (30 mins further east down the coast), you will pass many more vineyards. Even though the wine region is named for the seaside town, you won’t find any vineyards in the city center. In contrast to Cassis, Bandol is known for it’s earthy reds but also makes great whites and rosés. Taking the A50 towards La Ciotat/Toulon towards Bandol will take you past the villages of La Cadière d’Azur, Le Castellet, in the heart of the region. This guide will point you in the direction of specific wineries if you’re looking to plan in more detail.

This should go without saying that you should always have a designated driver if you plan on tasting wine – those sips can add up quick and France’s love of wine doesn’t cancel out their enforcement of drunk driving laws.

If you have time, continuing on to the village of Bandol would be a nice way to end the day. It is a fun and festive seaside town with quaint streets plenty of options for food to soak up all that wine.

Once you are satiated and tired, you only have a 42 minute drive back to Marseille.

Harbor in Bandol

Six-Fours-les-Plages

Another gem along the coast that I wanted to make sure to include in my guide to 5 unique day trip ideas from Marseille is Six-Fours-les-Plages. Take the A50 from Marseille towards Toulon and you’ll be there in about an hour. We didn’t spend much time in the center of Six-Fours and instead continued towards the sea to the smaller commune of Le Brusc, which I would recommend. It’s quaint with a distinctly local feel. You can pass through the little town by car and park in the paid lot further down towards the water.

Coastline at Le Brusc

Here the shore is rocky with pretty formations and tide pools and you can jump right in for a pleasant dip. We were there for golden & blue hour which were particularly beautiful. Adjacent to the coastline is a small island called Île du Petit Gaou which is reachable by foot bridge. There are walking paths to enjoy the beautiful nature, majestic cliffs and breathtaking views.

Scenes from Le Brusc & Île du Petit Gaou

There are a few nice restaurants close to island which offer amazing views. We chose to do a casual dinner of pizza back in the little village of Le Brusc which we ate on benches overlooking the harbor accompanied with rosé in plastic cups.

I would suggest allowing yourself a full afternoon here and ending up with sunset drinks and dinner. Six-Four/Le Brusc could also be paired with a morning trip to Cassis or Bandol.

Côte Bleue

So you’ve heard of the Côte d’Azur but have you heard of the Côte Bleue? I hadn’t until I started visiting Marseille regularly. The Côte Bleue is a charming piece of coastline between Marseille and Martigues, with the Mediterranean on one side and the Etang de Berre on the other. You’ll find quaint and lesser known fishing villages and beaches to keep to occupied on your day trip.

Coastline near Carry-le-Rouet

L’Estaque

Driving East from Marseille you can start in L’Estaque which is a suburb of Marseille and worth checking out either on your way out or on your way back. This little village has been an inspiration to many artists over the years including Cézanne, Renoir and Georges Braque.

Carry-le-Rouet

Further west you will find the village of Carry-le-Rouet, another seaside resort town which is favored as a summer retreat by the locals. Besides the cute downtown and harbor there is a coastal footpath where you can walk along the sea and four different beaches:

  • Le Rouet: the first beach in town and the most popular,
  • Cap Rousset: a natural limestone cove
  • Fernandel: in the center of town
  • Les Beaumettes: edge of town, stone and shallow water

Fun fact: Carry-le-Rouet is known as the “sea urchin capital” and even has a designated urchin month (February) with events and tastings!

Martigues

After you can head to Martigues, a colorful village known as the “Venice of Provence”. It’s bright buildings and bridges were definitely reminiscent of the famed Italian city, however even in the middle of summer there were no crowds. The Moiroir aux Oiseaux, a little port along Quai Brescon, was particularly picturesque and also a famed spot among painters.

Road to Valensole

I’m sure you’ve heard of Valensole (hello, Lavender fields?). Not so unique, you might say. BUT- I want to recommend a few places surrounding the famed plateau that you may not have on your radar, qualifying it as one of my unique day trip ideas from Marseille. The places below are a bit on the further side for a day trip so I would suggest leaving early if you want to get the most out of your day!

When you go to Valensole during off season 🙂

Gréoux-les-Bains

A cute little town with shops, colorful buildings and cafes with outdoor seatings for prime people watching! It also home to a thermal bath healthy center at which you can prebook health treatments for an extended period of time. If you’re just there for the day though and want to enjoy some pampering, there are facilities to book day treatments.

Moustiers-Sainte-Marie

We loved visiting this quaint perched village! Also simply known as “Moustiers”, this pedestrian town has waterfalls woven through it’s streets and a glorious view of the valley below. It’s also well known for it’s beautiful and uniquely hand-painted ceramics called faïence. You will see many shops with plenty of opportunities to stock up on unique souvenirs (although they are not cheap!) Also make sure to be respectful in the shops as a lot of them have signs that say “no photos.”

As you drive up the hill to approach the building there are parking lots where you can leave your vehicle and continue on foot into the town.

Sainte-Croix-du-Verdon

Sainte-Croix-du-Verdon is a small town overlooking the beautiful Lac Sainte Croix (which I also recommend visiting if you have time!) In fact, you can take a quick visit to the lakeshore below the village and then drive up the hill for the view. The view, in fact is the main attraction and we’ve come back several times to have dinner at Le Comptoir. I still think about the lavender honey & goat cheese bruschetta and dessert plate I ate there, and the scenery is truly unbeatable.

Camargue

To conclude my 5 unique day trip ideas from Marseille I present you with The Camargue. It’s a natural park area in Provence, known for it’s marshy land, birdwatching & wildlife, salt flats & quaint villages, just west of Marseille and the Côte Bleue. I would definitely recommend checking it out if you’re interested in distinct landscape and natural beauty.

Aigues-Mortes

Aigue-Mortes is an old medieval walled city with towers, lots of shops & restaurants. It is at the edge of a large pink body of water known as an Etang, or Lagoon that gets it’s color from the high concentration of salt in it. You can take a guided tour of the salt flats on a little train – cost is around 10 Euros. It was a neat and unique experience! You can also find WILD PINK FLAMINGOS as well as over 400 species of birds. Wild horses and cattle roam the rolling landscape, which looks a bit like a Monet painting.

Arles

While in the area, you can also visit the village of Arles, made famous in part by Vincent Van Gogh’s painting “Cafe at Night” (here is where the cafe can be found). You can even take a Van Gogh Walking Tour organized by the tourism office! Other things to visit are the Roman Amphitheater, Ancient Theater, several museums and of course, shops & cafes.

Conclusion

So, here you have it: 5 unique day trips from Marseille! If you can’t get enough of this region like me, check out my guides for Visiting Provence in Autumn and My Favorite Spots in Provence. If you scroll back up I’ve also provided a handy dandy MAP of all the places I’ve talked about here and color coded it by trip for your convenience. I hope this guide was helpful to you and that you enjoy your time in Provence, wherever it takes you!

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Best Instagram Spots in Marseille, France

August 7, 2019

Looking for the best Instagram spots in Marseille, France? Look no further! Marseille: love it or hate it, there is no doubt the city certainly has a lot of character. It also has some beautiful and quirky photo ops.

While I have visited Marseille many times (my father-in-law is from here), there are spots that I continue to go back to for amazing views and photos. Here are some of my favorites:

LE PANIER

Le Panier is Instagram gold. Tiny streets with colorful facades and shutters, endless street art…it’s a visual wonderland for photographers. Getting here from the Vieux Port is an short walk. You can then easily spend a morning or afternoon exploring it’s charm.

In front of a colorful mural in the Panier

COURS JULIEN

This is my other favorite neighborhood due to it’s fun shops, bars and restaurants. It’s also a mecca for street art easily making it part of the best instagram spots in Marseille. If you come during a weekday you’ll have the tiny alleyways practically to yourself to photograph.

VIEUX PORT

A classic, but a good one. This is the iconic spot in Marseille to get shots of the harbor. You can see with the Notre Dame church perched on the hill. Stop by the Mucem where you’ll find an amazing wall that will make the perfect backdrop for your photo.

VALLON DES AUFFES

This adorable little port with colorful boats is a great place to come for photos. I love seeing the sunset from here! If you come in the evening you can try the famous Marseille Bouillabaisse at Chez Fon Fon. Alternatively, if you’re looking for a more budget friendly option, you can have pizza and rosé at Chez Jeannote.

ÎLE DE FRIOUL

Just a quick and inexpensive ferry ride from the Vieux Port. We found this amazing clear water (below) on the Frioul Island on Esteve Beach. Once the boat docks, turn right and follow the map path for a 20 minute walk to this beautiful beach (there are maps and signs). On the way you will also catch scenic vistas of the Marseille skyline. Other spots by the water include Callelongue, Les Goudes & the Calanque Sorimiou. (See my other post on Marseille for more information about the wonderful Calanques!)

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Why You Shouldn’t Skip Marseille

October 7, 2018

A Bit of Background on Marseille, France

Headed to the South of France? I’m going to tell you why you shouldn’t skip Marseille. It’s a complex and beautiful place that I feel has somewhat of an unfair reputation. Not as shiny or neatly manicured as Nice or other places on the Riviera, it can be gritty. But it would definitely be a mistake to look it over! It has cool culture and sense of pride in it’s residents and it seems to me to be more real vs. the touristy Nice & Cannes.

Firstly, The location is amazing, right on the sea but surrounded by mountains. It’s absolutely full of great little pockets if you know where to look. Marseille is a huge port, and the population is a beautifully diverse mix of French and North African cultures. The more I spend time there, the more I love it and I am going to tell you why you’ll love it too. In addition, I would recommend watching the Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown Episode on Marseille if you can before you go. It’s a great little preview and commentary on the city!

Where to Stay

Apartment in Endoume | Rue des Flots Bleus, Marseille France

We are extremely lucky in that we always have a place to stay in Marseille with family. However, last fall we took a trip with my grandfather and rented a place that was in a better location for sightseeing and had a good experience. This apartment, while a bit dated in decor, was perfect for a stay with 2 couples or a family.  The view & terrace alone would alone would make me book it again. The location was right on the Corniche JFK near the Michelin starred restaurant Le Petit Nice. 

Cours Julien

This neighborhood is one of my favorites in the city, and would be a great place to stay and explore. For a New York reference: It’s like the east village of Marseille – lots of fun bars and restaurants, cute boutiques, graffiti, hipster/boho vibe. I love to walk around here and browse the shops – there are also plenty of good restaurants & bars here. If you book an AirBnB in this area it would be easy to walk to plenty of places. There is also a metro stop here so you can access other sites and areas easily through public transport (see below under TRANSPORT).



Booking.com

Where to Eat

Chez Ze | 402 Chemin de Morgiou, 13009 Marseille, France

Chez Ze is our absolute favorite restaurant in Marseille, a big part of it being the lovely terrace with a large tree growing out of it, providing shade. Even if you can’t sit on the terrace, the food is really good- I usually get a Salade Niçoise but they also have excellent pizza and pasta. It’s also at the foothill of a mountain where you can hike to the Calqanque Sormiou (see below under DO).

 UMMAGUMMA | rue des Trois Rois, 13006 Marseille, France

Cute place in the Cours Julien, delicious food & romantic/cozy atmosphere. As I recall, they give you a sample of house liquor with your meal.

Chez Jeannot | Vallon des Auffes, 13007 Marseille, France

The food here is fine but you really go for the location – right on the Vallon des Auffes which is a small port with ships where you can watch the sunset while enjoying your food. They have a little but of everything here – seafood, pizza (of course), traditional French, etc.

La Grotte | 1 Avenue des Pebrons, 13008 Marseille, France

This place is on the outskirts of Marseille in a small village called Callelongue. The restaurant is run by a family that has owned it for years, and the decor is regal. It’s in a great location right on the water and the food is pretty good. They have pizza (sensing a theme here) but also lots of local specialties and fresh seafood. If you go during the day, you can do a hike to the Calanque Marseilleveyre, enjoy the beach, and then finish your day with apéro and dinner at La Grotte.

Pastis: the drink of Marseille

Where to Go Out

The drink of Marseille is Pastis – a liquor with a slight licorice flavor that is mixed with water and served over ice. It’s not for everyone but you should try it once. I prefer it mixed with almond syrup, which is called a “Mauresque”. It’s usually only 1 or 2 euros at the bar! Also wine is generally very cheap, so even picking up a bottle at the store and drinking it on your terrace is really nice!

Fun areas to go out are the Cours Julien & the Vieux Port, Cours Julien has lots of little bars and pubs that you can walk to. The place below is a spot called Au Petit Nice where we’ve gotten a drink on occasion – they also have a big terrace that may or may not be open Also the Vieux Port has a lot of bars and restaurants, O’Malleys is one we’ve gone to a lot to watch games and get drinks

20000 Lieues | 12 boulevard Alexandre Delabre , 13008 Marseille, France

Another really neat bar that is a bit off the beaten path is in a cute little old fisherman’s village on the outskirts of Marseille called Les Goudes. It’s right on the water and feels like you’re in an old ship! Definitely a local spot – they serve food during the day, have outdoor seating and I think live music sometimes.

What to Do : Beaches & Calanques

The calanques are a series of inlets that run along the Mediterranean coast from Marseille to Cassis. If you like hiking, nature, and beautiful beaches, this is a must for any trip to the Marseille area. Most of them are only accessible by foot or boat. There are a few calanques that you can access around Marseille, which you will find more information on from the link above.

From Cassis (approx half hour drive from Marseille), you can take a Calanque Cruise, which will show you all the different Calanques from the boat. That option won’t allow you to swim in the Calanques, but is a good option if you want to see them all in a shorter amount of time. The tours are usually in French only :). Port Pin is my favorite Calanque in Cassis, and Sormiou is a great option in Marseille. Sormiou can also be accessed by car during peak season if you have reservations at the local restaurant there, or from October-Spring.

Marseille city has a few of it’s own beaches – Plage de la Pointe Rouge &  Plage du Prophete are the main ones. However, these beaches are not as clean and have more of a “city beach” feel. For a more pleasant beach experience I would recommend hiking to a calanque in Marseille or Cassis.

What to Do : In Marseille

Vieux Port 

The “Old Port” of Marseille, lots of shops, restaurants, sometimes markets. Fun to walk around and take in all the sights and sounds

MuCem 

Mediterranean Culture Museum near Vieux Port, cool architecture – great to even just walk around if you don’t feel like going in

Notre Dame de la Garde

Large church of Marseille, France that sits on a hill – there’s a cute little touristy train you can take up the hill which is fun – I don’t think it’s too far from the Cours Julien to walk to the base of the hill.

Chateau D’If 

Island off the coast of Marseille – it’s an old prison and the site of Monte Cristo! There is a museum and tour. You can take a ferry from the Vieux port. In addition, the The ferry also goes to the Frioul which is another island with a nice beach.

Colorful Street in the Cours Julien

Where to Shop

Cours Julien

Mostly boutiques and fun vintage/antique stores. One of my favorites is Fifty Balloons, I’ve bought a few things there over the years.

Le Pleine Market 

Large open air market where you can find everyone from produce, to shoes to beauty products! Every Tuesday and Thursday in the Cours Julien. Just really watch yourself there- I’ve always felt safe but it is very crowded so bring only a small purse (if any) and keep it very close to you just in case. There is a Pizza truck there called Pizza Claude and his pizza is AMAZING fyi.

Vieux Port Rue Saint Ferreol 

Large shopping street near Vieux Port. Has lots of European chains. There are also lots of little shops and markets selling souvenirs.

Safety

Like any big city, Marseille has it’s share of crime. In general, I feel very safe in Marseille and I would just follow the common sense rules of going out in a city. Stay in well lit and well populated areas & keep your belongings close to your body. You might also see armed guards at places like tourist spots & train stations – they carry machine guns which can look intimidating, but that’s just how they all are and there are more of them because of the European attacks in the past few years. Avoid the Quartier Nord.

Transportation

Marseille’s Metro system is really simple. There are only 2 lines: Red and Blue. The metro tickets are 1 or 2 Euros each and you can purchase them on the machines in the station (which you can set to English). For example, if you stayed in the Cours Julien, you would be near stop Notre Dame du Mont Which is only 2 stops from the main train station. At that stops you could switch to the blue line which would bring you to the Vieux Port. I’ve ridden it by myself many times – like anywhere just be alert and mind your belongings.

Want to read about my favorite spots in Provence? Click here!

Planning your trip to Provence in the fall? I have a great guide for you here.

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